Why Recycled Polyester is NOT a good Idea! Debunking sustainability myths.

Ask a sportswear designer their favourite fabric and listen to their answer. I can tell you right away. Spandex! Of course. The be-all and end- all of the industry is now evolving and blending with polyester and nylon to give us the stretchiness and comfort we deserve after a long tiring day. But polyester is not good for the environment! How do you remedy that? RPET of course, you say! Wrong! Recycled polyester is very much in demand nowadays with every sportswear company putting out posts mentioning it. It's Recycled polyester after all.

But why is it not a good idea?

Well, for one reason, RPET is simply what it's named. It's Recycled alright but it's not RECYCLABLE! Which means it's made from PET bottles spun into yarn and then into fabric, but it cannot be re- made into fabric when it reaches the end of it's shelf life. It finally ends up in the landfills where it was supposed to end up. So in reality, the process is delayed but not resolved.

Disappointed? There's more! RPET is in its finest essence, still plastic. It still emits polymers in the washing machine which finally ends up in the ocean.

So then what's the solution you ask? Is there no end to the cycle of pollution?!

Turns out there is. And the answer is simpler than it sounds: Cuprammonium Rayon. Cupro.

A semi synthetic textile that was originally made in the US but is now primarily produced in China and Japan, this wonder textile has amazing properties: it is recyclable and shiny which is why it's called vegan silk, it blends well with other fabrics and has elasticity, is hypoallergenic , machine washable and breathable. Cupro is stronger than viscose. It doesn't lose its strength when wet. It endures the washing machine more than other synthetic textiles. It might be the Super-Textile of the Era!

But there are a few downsides to Cupro as well. And that depends on the point of view.

Being a regenerated cellulose fibre, it is made up of small fibres of cellulose called linters. These linters are spun into fabric and dipped in a solution of caustic soda, copper and ammonia. Finally upon extrusion, these chemicals are removed and the finished fabric is available. Cupro however can be fairly circular in nature if the garments are recycled at proper stages.

It is arguably a questionable process and one that might not be fully sustainable but it is up there amongst the likes of Modal , Tencel and Lyocell, all eco- fabrics in their own rights. Until mankind devices a way to make a purely sustainable fabric based on circular design, this is at least a trial fabric that has proven effective in its own right.

Pic credits: https://goodonyou.eco/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/cupromglead-1200x630.jpg